The first ascent of the route “Bougiouklou - Adamakopoulou” (VI, 250m) was realized in July 1984 by A. Mpougiouklou - Tr. Adamakopoulos.
The line starts to the left of the entrance to “Svarnistra”, climbing an easy gully, after which we move left to a wall where R0 is.
For the 1st pitch (III, 30m), we head left towards a passage that leads to a small ramp, which ends behind and leads to a plateau with a cave, where the relay is made (R1).
For the 2nd pitch (V+, 35m), we head straight up a small dihedral where we see the two characteristic cracks with the wedged stone at their end. The belay is very good with large friends and nuts. After the wedged stone (which is belayed with a passing nut) the relay is made (R2). Up to this point the route is common with “Spanoudi - Georgiadi”.
For the 3rd pitch (VI, 30m), we climb a few meters, so to the left and outside the ramp we are on, we see a left traverse, downhill at its exit. At the exit of the traverse we make a relay on a straight (R3).
For the 4th pitch (VI, 35m), we continue right up following a vertical gutter, slab and chimney.
For the 5th pitch (IV+, 45m), we have easy climbing and easy route finding and the relay (R5) is done in a cave at the end of an easy positive field.
For the 6th pitch (IV, 45m), we move left on an easy passage and we are again in an easy field, like an amphitheater, where we make a relay (R6).
From there it will take a few more easy meters to the ridge.
On 21/3/2001 K. Gabriel - A. Asimakopoulos were the first to repeat the route under winter conditions. That winter version was named “Traverse of mortals” (III M4 A1, 250m), a route which offers seven mixed pitches comprising all types of climbing (exposed traverses, slabs, fissures, chimneys) and which then continues on the upper easy part of the route “Blotti”.
The route does not have permanent belays and everything is done with natural belays. Some big cams or exentrics would be useful for climbing the route. The belay of the 4th pitch is built on a good and solid thread.
The return from the ridge is done by walking directly down to the left (until we meet the marked path to Vathia Laka), or by climbing a few more meters to the right to the top and from there following the marked path to Vathia Laka.
Sketch of the summer route.
Sketch of the winter route.