The first ascent of the route “Katheti istoria” (VII- A0, 300m) was realized in summer 2004. This project was carried out by H. Ananiadis and several other climbing partners, after 4 attempts in a period of 8 years: the first one was made H. Ananiadis - D. Petrou - S. Vazaloukas, the 2nd one by H. Ananiadis - D. Petrou, the 3rd one by H. Ananiadis - T. Christopoulos - T. Thomidis - A. Hatzinikolaou and finally the 4th one by H. Ananiadis - T. Christopoulos - G. Nteros - A. Kokolas.
The 1st pitch moves on a fissure for 25m. The 2nd pitch also follows a fissure for another 40m. The 3rd pitch is short and easy. The 4th pitch follows a crack - dihedral for 8m and then it moves on a completely vertical slab with a slender fissure, and finally ends with a difficult traverse. The 5th pitch follows a vertical and demanding dihedral and finishes with a traverse 4m to the left. The 6th pitch continues on the same dihedral, this time on its left side because the dihedral is blocked by a big roof, and then the pitch goes on with a traverse to the right for 2m, above the roof, and after that point it moves diagonally upwards and to the left, until the ledge. The 7th pitch moves on the ledge following a traverse to the right for 25m. The 8th pitch moves straight up, on a mediocre quality rock, and then to the left and up. The 9th pitch goes a little bit to the right in order to follow the crack - dihedral with a slightly overhanging angle, after that to the right and up and then to the left for 2m on the dihedral and straight up towards the mossy ledge. Finally a traverse to the right leads to the belay, at the base of an overhanging chimney. The 10th pitch follows the overhanging chimney for 12m, then a traverse to the left so as to avoid a big overhang that blocks the chimney, right after that a dihedral for 6m and finally the pitch enters in an easy field for 20m until up to the top.
The 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 10th pitch generally move on a very solid rock. The 4th pitch moves on a mediocre quality rock, while the rock where the 6th, 7th, 8th and 9th pitch move has many loose and dangerous parts. The 8th belay is equipped with one piton and one bolt, which in no case should be used by climbers as piece of protection, since it has been placed on loose rock.
The belays of the route are equipped with bolts, while the in-between pros are either bolts or pitons. Necessary equipment for climbing the route is a set of nuts and a set of friends, 7 pitons, 8 quickdraws, 8 carabiners and 12 slings.
Approaching the route takes 2,5h from the refuge of Astraka, by following the marked footpath which goes down through Karteros’ pass. When arriving at the foot of the crag you can see the characteristic fissure of the route, on the northern ridge of the west tower.
On the scree, at the base of Karteros (extension of the pass between Karteros and Gamila II), there is a place suitable for bivouac.
