The first ascent of the route “Spanoudi - Georgiadi” (V, 280m) was realized on July 1968 by A. Spanoudis - V. Georgiadis.
The line starts from the ledge to the left of the entrance to “Svarnistra”, from where we climb an easy gully that ends at a second ledge to make the initial belay (R0).
On the 1st pitch we follow a passage to the left of the ledge, where a small ramp ends at the back, on a grassy plateau, and there we make the belay.
On the 2nd pitch our direction is up a small dihedral and to the right, where we see the two characteristic cracks with the wedged stone at their end. The belaying is very good with large friends and large nuts. After the wedged stone (which is secured with a nut) we make the belay. Up to this point the route is the same as the “Bougiouklou - Adamakopoulou” route.
On the 3rd pitch, we continue on a grassy ramp to a crossing point (secured on a through hole). Then we continue on a slanted dihedral to the right (1 piton) and a ramp that splits into two, choosing the lower ramp with the loose rocks to make the belay (1 piton).
On the 4th pitch, we follow the ramp to its end, where there is a slanted rock spike and from there we climb up and left to a dihedral that ends in a grassy area to make the belay.
On the 5th pitch, we follow successive passages that lead us to the next grassy area to make the belay.
On the 6th pitch, we choose the right side, towards an easy dihedral-ramp that, before its end, we leave for a passage on the right, on a characteristic small triangular block, descending on a traverse that continues on a ramp upwards, to the cave with the only suitable point for the belay (a large rock spike).
On the 7th pitch, we head right and back to easy rock, we traverse the last and most beautiful passage of the route (a large wedged rock) to a large ledge, where we make the belay.
For the exit, from the 7th belay we can see a faint path on our left, which we follow while remaining tied and moving in parallel motion, so that in 70m we reach the summit ridge.
The 60m long ropes are very convenient for the route.
The first winter repetition of the route was made on 25/3/2023 by A. Konstantinidis - P. Mastropero - O. Mitrou and was named “Traverse of the three” (III 2 M4+, 280m). On the 1st pitch we climb a snowy slope (up to 50°) until we encounter a rocky obstacle, where we do our belay. On the 2nd pitch we overcome the obstacle from the right and enter a mini amphitheater, which on the right has the slab with the cracks (up to 65°) at the end of which there is the wedged stone, which we pass (M4) to do our belay. On the 3rd pitch we continue on the ramp to the top (up to 50°) where we also make the spectacular stride (M2). On the 4th pitch we choose the upper right oblique crack and traverse with delicate movements (M4+). On the 5th pitch we climb for 5m (M2) and then continue on snow. On the 6th pitch we continue on snow until we reach the cave, which we easily overcome from the left. On the 7th pitch we continue for 100m up and a little to the left to the exit to the slope, or alternatively, for more climbing, we choose a course on the right, which will lead us to the summit.
Sketch of the summer route.
Sketch of the winter route.