The first ascent of the route “Michailidi - Zolota” (VI-, 380m) was realized on 29-30/7/1957 by G. Michailidis - X. Zolotas and involved 1 bivouac.
The line follows the central gully of Mytikas, which starts from the base of the crag and ends just a bit under the summit. The gully, which is actually a huge chimney, and the walls around it, is an extremely loose and dangerous location, mostly its upper half, at least when it comes to rock climbing.
The 1st pitch, though it has a quite tough start, is equipped with several pitons, and so it won’t be a trouble. The rest of the pitches, until the 6th one, are easy and pleasant and move on a rather stable rock. From the 7th pitch on, the climb requires good self-control and extreme caution. The 7th pitch normally moves in the centre and a bit to the right on a fissure equipped with one piton, but there is also the possibility of a making a right-to-left detour, first on a loose dihedral and then on a rib, with a difficult traverse to the right, which is part of the route “Galani - Parousi” and which is equipped with pitons. The rest of the route, up to the exit, moves on loose parts, where natural protection cannot be placed properly, while even the existing pitons do not look that stable. However, the feeling, when coming out on the highest pick of this legendary mountain, compensates for every single trouble which had to be bared in this dark and unfriendly gully.
Necessary equipment for this climb is a set of nuts, a few friends, a few pitons and slings. Nuts and friends might not seem so useful on the loose parts of the route, but the pitons will certainly help out.
